I'm so excited to finally be sharing my modified pattern for the Cobblestonette. Before I continue, I have to say that I'm incredibly thankful for the initial publication by Jared Flood at brooklyntweed and very thankful for the inspiration provided by other insightful knitter on Ravelry like lilybeth and neekie. I'm definitely not seeking to gain anything from publishing my adjustments, just hoping to help clarify this INCREDIBLE pattern for other women who might be inclined to create their own Cobblestonette.
The Cobblestonette.
Yarn: Knit Picks Andean Treasure (100% Baby Alpaca). Approximately 10 skeins. Color: Lilac Heather.
Needles: US #3 (3.25mm) 24 and 29” Circulars, #3 (3.25mm) set of double pointed needles.
Gauge: 6 stitches per inch.
Yarn: Knit Picks Andean Treasure (100% Baby Alpaca). Approximately 10 skeins. Color: Lilac Heather.
Needles: US #3 (3.25mm) 24 and 29” Circulars, #3 (3.25mm) set of double pointed needles.
Gauge: 6 stitches per inch.
Size of the garment: Roughly XS - S.
Note: Throughout the pattern I say “moss X amount of sts.” Moss = k1,p1, repeat.
Body:
With 24” circulars, cast on 176 stitches. Place marker (pm) and join in round. The following two rows comprise the moss stitch repeat: Row 1: *K1, p1, repeat till end of round.* Row 2: *P1, k1, repeat till end of round.” Repeat these two rows until piece measures 2” from CO edge. Next rnd: K1, p1 (15). Pm. K (73). Pm. K1, p1 (15). K(73). Continue until piece measures 4” from CO edge.
Decrease round: k1, p1 (15). Slip marker (sm), k1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog tbl (or SSL), k1. Sm. K1, p1 (15). Sm. K1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker (end of round), k2tog tbl (or SSL). 172 stitches remain.
Repeat decrease round every 6th row, 3 times more. 160 stitches remain.
Continue in pattern until piece measures 19” from CO edge.
I highly encourage occasionally slipping all stitches onto waste yarn and trying the piece on to help achieve the correct length you would like. 19 inches happens to be a perfect length for me, but I do have a slightly longer torso. Also, I did not include any increases for the bust because I wanted a very tight fit; however, looking back on it now I probably could have used just a few increases. The lovely part of this simple sweater is that you can adjust the pattern and measurements as you see fit.
Sleeves:
With double pointed needles, cast on 36 stitches and distribute evenly over 3 needles (12 stitches per needle). I modified the number of stitches for the cast on at the wrist because I have TINY wrists. If you tend to have larger wrists, I would suggest perhaps casting on 42 stitches and waiting before you increase. Work in moss stitch repeat until piece measures 2” from CO. Next rnd: Knit. Continue until work measures 5” from CO.
Increase rnd: K2, m1. Knit to the last 2 stitches before end of rnd, m1.
Repeat increase round every 6th row, 12 times more. 58 stitches. Continue until sleeve measures 20” from CO. Again I recommend trying the sleeve on to adjust to your personal measurements.
Next rnd: K to last 7 stitches, slip next 13 sts onto waste yarn, removing m. 45 sts remain. Place sts on holder.
Yoke:
Join the body and sleeves! Continue with longer circular needle, beginning at center back. Moss stitch 33 body back sts, moss 45 sts of first sleeve and pm (Short-row Marker 1). Moss 65 body front sts and pm (Short-row Marker 2), moss 45 sts of second sleeve. Moss 32 sts of body back and pm for beg of rnd: 220 sts total.
Short-Row 1: (RS) Moss stitch to Short-Row Marker 1, moss 10, wrap next st, turn.
Short-Row 2: (WS) Moss stitch to Short-Row Marker 2, moss 10, wrap next st, turn.
Next row: Moss stitch to beginning of rnd m. Moss 2 rows more.
Short-Row 3: (RS) Moss to Short-Row Marker 1, moss 6, wrap next st, turn.
Short-Row 4: (WS) Moss to Short-Row Marker 2, moss 6, wrap next st, turn.
Next row: Moss to beg-of-rnd m. Moss 2 rows more.
Short-Row 5: (RS) Moss to Short-Row Marker 1, moss 2, wrap next st, turn.
Short-Row 6: (WS) Moss to Short-Row Marker 2, moss, 2, wrap next st, turn.
Next row: Moss to beg-of-rnd m. Moss 2 rows more.
Short-Row 7: (RS) Moss to Short-Row Marker 1, wrap next st, turn.
Short-Row 8: (WS) Moss to Short-Row Marker 2, wrap next st, turn.
Next row: Moss to beg-of-rnd m. Work in moss stitch until yoke measures 2” at center back.
Change to shorter circular needles when necessary.
This is where things get a LITTLE tricky with moss stitch. In order to decrease and keep with the most stitch you have to decrease two stitches consecutively. It isn’t ideal, but since the moss stitch has such a definite texture, the decreases are hardly visible.
Decrease rnd 1: *Moss 3, p2tog, k2tog, moss 3.* Repeat until the end of rnd.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The first decrease stitch for all decrease rows MUST be a purled stitch in order for the two consecutive decreases to not look horrible. Therefore, if you happen to have to moss 2 instead of 3 for the first step of the decrease round depending on whether you began with a p or a k at the center back, so be it.
Work in moss st until yoke measures 4” at center back.
Decrease rnd 2: *Moss 2, p2tog, k2tog, moss 2.* Repeat until end of rnd.
Work in moss st until yoke measures 5” at center back.
Decrease rnd 3: *Moss 2, p2tog, k2tog, moss2* Repeat until end of rnd.
Work in moss st until desired length is achieved. BO.
I bound off only one or two rows after the last decrease. I wanted a wider neck for a more feminine look. I also used Elizabeth Zimmerman’s sewn bind off method, which happens to look fabulous with the moss stitch.
Finishing:
Use a tapestry needle to Kitchener st the underarm stitches together. Block to assigned measurements (or the measurements you so desire). Weave in ends.
Note on blocking and yarn: The Andean Treasure yarn from Knit Picks is absolutely wonderful and blocks to perfection. I had one or two minor visible gauge issues in the body and it blocked out instantly. Also, I had previously used these skeins of yarn to knit a sweater which I unraveled, soaked and re-used for this sweater so it definitely is durable and reliable. It’s incredibly soft, has wonderful ease and is very affordable. I highly recommend it.
Note: Throughout the pattern I say “moss X amount of sts.” Moss = k1,p1, repeat.
Body:
With 24” circulars, cast on 176 stitches. Place marker (pm) and join in round. The following two rows comprise the moss stitch repeat: Row 1: *K1, p1, repeat till end of round.* Row 2: *P1, k1, repeat till end of round.” Repeat these two rows until piece measures 2” from CO edge. Next rnd: K1, p1 (15). Pm. K (73). Pm. K1, p1 (15). K(73). Continue until piece measures 4” from CO edge.
Decrease round: k1, p1 (15). Slip marker (sm), k1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog tbl (or SSL), k1. Sm. K1, p1 (15). Sm. K1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker (end of round), k2tog tbl (or SSL). 172 stitches remain.
Repeat decrease round every 6th row, 3 times more. 160 stitches remain.
Continue in pattern until piece measures 19” from CO edge.
I highly encourage occasionally slipping all stitches onto waste yarn and trying the piece on to help achieve the correct length you would like. 19 inches happens to be a perfect length for me, but I do have a slightly longer torso. Also, I did not include any increases for the bust because I wanted a very tight fit; however, looking back on it now I probably could have used just a few increases. The lovely part of this simple sweater is that you can adjust the pattern and measurements as you see fit.
Sleeves:
With double pointed needles, cast on 36 stitches and distribute evenly over 3 needles (12 stitches per needle). I modified the number of stitches for the cast on at the wrist because I have TINY wrists. If you tend to have larger wrists, I would suggest perhaps casting on 42 stitches and waiting before you increase. Work in moss stitch repeat until piece measures 2” from CO. Next rnd: Knit. Continue until work measures 5” from CO.
Increase rnd: K2, m1. Knit to the last 2 stitches before end of rnd, m1.
Repeat increase round every 6th row, 12 times more. 58 stitches. Continue until sleeve measures 20” from CO. Again I recommend trying the sleeve on to adjust to your personal measurements.
Next rnd: K to last 7 stitches, slip next 13 sts onto waste yarn, removing m. 45 sts remain. Place sts on holder.
Yoke:
Join the body and sleeves! Continue with longer circular needle, beginning at center back. Moss stitch 33 body back sts, moss 45 sts of first sleeve and pm (Short-row Marker 1). Moss 65 body front sts and pm (Short-row Marker 2), moss 45 sts of second sleeve. Moss 32 sts of body back and pm for beg of rnd: 220 sts total.
Short-Row 1: (RS) Moss stitch to Short-Row Marker 1, moss 10, wrap next st, turn.
Short-Row 2: (WS) Moss stitch to Short-Row Marker 2, moss 10, wrap next st, turn.
Next row: Moss stitch to beginning of rnd m. Moss 2 rows more.
Short-Row 3: (RS) Moss to Short-Row Marker 1, moss 6, wrap next st, turn.
Short-Row 4: (WS) Moss to Short-Row Marker 2, moss 6, wrap next st, turn.
Next row: Moss to beg-of-rnd m. Moss 2 rows more.
Short-Row 5: (RS) Moss to Short-Row Marker 1, moss 2, wrap next st, turn.
Short-Row 6: (WS) Moss to Short-Row Marker 2, moss, 2, wrap next st, turn.
Next row: Moss to beg-of-rnd m. Moss 2 rows more.
Short-Row 7: (RS) Moss to Short-Row Marker 1, wrap next st, turn.
Short-Row 8: (WS) Moss to Short-Row Marker 2, wrap next st, turn.
Next row: Moss to beg-of-rnd m. Work in moss stitch until yoke measures 2” at center back.
Change to shorter circular needles when necessary.
This is where things get a LITTLE tricky with moss stitch. In order to decrease and keep with the most stitch you have to decrease two stitches consecutively. It isn’t ideal, but since the moss stitch has such a definite texture, the decreases are hardly visible.
Decrease rnd 1: *Moss 3, p2tog, k2tog, moss 3.* Repeat until the end of rnd.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The first decrease stitch for all decrease rows MUST be a purled stitch in order for the two consecutive decreases to not look horrible. Therefore, if you happen to have to moss 2 instead of 3 for the first step of the decrease round depending on whether you began with a p or a k at the center back, so be it.
Work in moss st until yoke measures 4” at center back.
Decrease rnd 2: *Moss 2, p2tog, k2tog, moss 2.* Repeat until end of rnd.
Work in moss st until yoke measures 5” at center back.
Decrease rnd 3: *Moss 2, p2tog, k2tog, moss2* Repeat until end of rnd.
Work in moss st until desired length is achieved. BO.
I bound off only one or two rows after the last decrease. I wanted a wider neck for a more feminine look. I also used Elizabeth Zimmerman’s sewn bind off method, which happens to look fabulous with the moss stitch.
Finishing:
Use a tapestry needle to Kitchener st the underarm stitches together. Block to assigned measurements (or the measurements you so desire). Weave in ends.
Note on blocking and yarn: The Andean Treasure yarn from Knit Picks is absolutely wonderful and blocks to perfection. I had one or two minor visible gauge issues in the body and it blocked out instantly. Also, I had previously used these skeins of yarn to knit a sweater which I unraveled, soaked and re-used for this sweater so it definitely is durable and reliable. It’s incredibly soft, has wonderful ease and is very affordable. I highly recommend it.
I hope this helps you ladies out! This is a great sweater and a great exercise in learning how to shape a piece to your own body. Enjoy!
